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Michelin chef wins top hygiene rating after claiming he’d only been given one-star verdict because food inspectors didn’t understand his sashimi

by London Mail
August 6, 2026
in News
Reading Time: 4 mins read

A two-Michelin-starred restaurant has been awarded a top hygiene rating after receiving a one-star verdict over flies, raw lobster and a dirty knife.

Ynyshir, located near Machynlleth in west Wales, was given the lowest possible rating following a hygiene inspection last November.

The report released by Ceredigion County Council found that the exclusive £468-a-head restaurant fell short in its ‘layout, ventilation, hand washing facilities and pest control’. 

It found that the correct checks had not been carried out to serve raw lobster and a rug hanging in the kitchen was not able to be cleaned properly.

Inspectors discovered that the safe management of ingredients including birch tree sap, aged pigeon and wild garlic was deemed to be inadequate.

They also observed that a knife used for preparing beef for burgers was ‘dirty’ and there was ‘an accumulation of flies’ on a paper sticky strip in the prep room near the walk-in chiller. 

Officials consequently said a ‘major improvement’ was required for the management of food safety and the cleanliness of the facilities. 

After the scathing report, the restaurant’s head chef, Gareth Ward, ‘immediately’ made the necessary changes and was awarded the highest rating of five after a reinspection in February.

Ynshir's head chef Gareth Ward (pictured), 45, holding the restaurant's sign with his name on

Ynshir’s head chef Gareth Ward (pictured), 45, holding the restaurant’s sign with his name on

A picture of Ynyshir's Sashimi served to a happy customer at the Welsh countryside restaurant

A picture of Ynyshir’s Sashimi served to a happy customer at the Welsh countryside restaurant

'Major improvement' was required at Ynyshir after food inspectors voiced concerns over the 'cleanliness and condition' of facilities

‘Major improvement’ was required at Ynyshir after food inspectors voiced concerns over the ‘cleanliness and condition’ of facilities

The restaurant’s food handling was deemed ‘very good’ and the cleanliness and management of food safety were found to be ‘good’. 

But Mr Ward claimed that Ynyshir received the lowest possible rating because food hygiene inspectors did not understand his use of sashimi and dry-aged fish.

‘We buy in the best ingredients from around the world and a lot of it I serve raw,’ he defiantly said.

‘I’m buying sashimi-grade fish from Japan and they’re questioning, “Well, we don’t know the water, so how do we know it’s sashimi grade?”

‘Well, it is sashimi grade, this stuff’s eaten raw all over the world, and just because our rules don’t fit their rules, they’re questioning it.’

Described by the Michelin Guide as a ‘truly unique experience’, Ynyshir offers a 30-course dinner experience which takes up to five hours to eat.

Diners can opt for the ‘full experience’ at the restaurant and stay the night for an additional £330 for the cheapest room or £714 for the garden room.

But the restaurant does not offer any amendments to the dishes on offer, stating: ‘The experience is not suitable for those with food allergies, intolerances, and dislikes.’

Among the changes implemented following the report was an extra hand-washing sink installed in the fish preparation area and fixing the paperwork – as some of it ‘wasn’t right’.

However, Mr Ward said the restaurant does ‘take what we do very seriously’, adding he has ’27 years of experience’.

‘The kitchen is open, everyone can see everything, the place is immaculate,’ he said.

Ynyshir previously told the Daily Mail some of its ‘specialised’ cooking methods ‘differ from conventional kitchen operations’.

Gareth Ward, pictured, holding a AA Rosette Award for Culinary Excellence 2015-2016

Gareth Ward, pictured, holding a AA Rosette Award for Culinary Excellence 2015-2016

A spokesman said: ‘Following a recent routine inspection by the local authority, a number of administrative and procedural actions were identified for improvement.

‘We take this outcome seriously and have already addressed these points in full.

‘We are currently working closely and cooperatively with Environmental Health and have requested an early reinspection in line with the council’s guidance.

‘Ynyshir operates with cooking techniques and processes heavily influenced by Japanese ingredients and methodologies.

‘This approach involves specialised preparation and handling practices that differ from conventional kitchen operations.

‘We operate at the highest professional level and are proud to work with some of the finest suppliers and ingredients from across the globe.

‘We remain fully confident in our processes, our team, and the safety of our operation.

‘As always, our focus is on delivering an exceptional and safe dining experience for every guest who visits us.’

Ynyshir Restaurant and Rooms became Wales’ first ever two-star Michelin restaurant in 2022 after being awarded its first star eight years earlier.

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