A hearty combination of pie, mash and gravy is one of my favourite meals — but would this ‘best ever pub pie’ live up to the name?
My first ever job at 16 was working as a waitress in my local pub and I quickly learned that you will eat some of the best meals of your life in a pub. The portions are often substantial (though it’s not a case of quantity over quality) and prices are often more affordable than restaurants.
So when I was invited to try Marston’s and Michelin-starred chef Tom Shepherd’s “Best Ever Pub Pie”, I first asked myself: what constitutes “best ever” in the context of a pub pie? Back in the day, one thing I used to think to myself as I was serving customers was ‘Why would you order a pie in a restaurant, when you can get one from the chippy?’
But I later realised that I did not taste a truly good pie until I reached my 20s — that’s when I realised that a hearty combination of pie, mash and gravy is one of my favourite meals and often something I now make at home.
With all this in mind, I headed to my local Marston’s pub, The Mary Dillwyn in Fforestfach, Swansea, to try their Best Ever Pub Pie and see for myself. It was inspired by Tom’s winning dish on the BBC’s Great British Menu. It has returned to pub menus due to popular demand following its original run in April.
My mission was to figure out one thing: is this really the best ever pub pie? I ordered it as suggested: with creamed mashed potatoes, honey-roasted carrots, kale, peas, green beans, mangetout and a rich red wine sauce.
It was a triple-layered pie, made with rich hand-pulled beef cheek and pulled beef shin, sweet and garlicky caramelised onions, separated by a thinly sliced roasted potato layer, all encased within a deliciously textured beef fat shortcrust pastry.
My dad, who will always tell me exactly what he thinks of every bite, ordered the chicken, British ham hock and leek pie so we could compare them.
When it arrived, it was no shock that the portion was generous. The plate was packed with veggies, creamy mashed potato and of course the main event, the pie itself. Visually, it looked gorgeous, a perfectly browned pie, contrasting with the the colourful veg beside it.
I cut into the pie and discovered it was packed full of filling: tender beef, onions and potatoes. It tasted delicious and luxurious. The meat was so soft and full of flavour, the thick pastry was amazing. The flavours were rich, thanks to the red wine sauce.
The potatoes in the pie were probably an unnecessary addition. As it was accompanied by mash, it almost felt like an overload of carbs.
The pastry was buttery, with an overall crunch and it wasn’t soggy at all (until I lathered it in sauce, that is.) It was thick, but not too thick that it was stodgy and distracting. The mash was creamy but not sloppy so it still had the texture you want from mashed potato.
The honey-roasted carrots, kale, peas, green beans and mangetout which came with the pie and mash were good too. My personal highlight was the carrots, with a sweetness and slight crunch to them. I did think the kale was an odd choice to accompany the dish and something like tenderstem broccoli may have been a better option.
This meal at my local Marston’s pub sells at £20.99, which I do think is a little steep. I do think you are getting value for money in terms of portion size and a really good quality meal, but I do think it could be made slightly more affordable. That being said, it’s created by a Michelin-starred chef, which you would inevitably pay more for at a Michelin-starred restaurant.
The restaurant also offered a variety of other cheaper, including the chicken, British ham hock and leek pie for £15.79, the British steak and Malbec pie for £15.99 or roasted lamb rump, which is actually pricier at £21.50.
My dad’s chicken pie looked more like your traditional pub pie. He said it was delicious, creamy and also quite rich. Perhaps a good alternative, then, if you’re looking for a more affordable option.
So to the question you’re probably wondering: do I think this is the best pie I’ve ever had? Well, here are my thoughts.
Firstly, it’s probably not the best pie I’ve ever had. I’ve had some belters from some local independently run pubs across Wales, which were a fraction of the price. However, I do think it’s up there. The combinations of flavour were delicious and balanced and it felt like a luxury. But I do think I would order it again on a special occasion because I’d find it difficult to justify spending over £20 on a pub lunch even if it’s been created by a Michelin-starred chef.
Secondly, if you’re a true pie connoisseur, I’d definitely recommend trying it. But if you just enjoy a good pie at a lower price I’d recommend trying elsewhere, maybe even your own local pub.
(I was invited to try the Best Ever Pub Pie by Marston’s, although these views are my own.)
