Imagine my surprise when I found that Americans have their own version of a classic British scone, but could it beat the traditional British version?
Scones are an inherently British bake, so recognisable with a dollop of jam and cream (or cream and jam, depending on who you ask). Whether you’re partaking in a classic cream tea or tucking into a fancy afternoon tea, there should always be a scone.
It might be plain, it may have currants or even be a savoury cheese version. Whichever way you dress it up, it’s still a traditional British bake. So imagine my shock when flicking through the July edition of Good Food magazine I find a sentence that strikes fear into my heart: “Recipe of the month: blueberry and lemon American-style scones.”
The Americans have a habit (not a good one) of adopting things which aren’t theirs, changing them, super-sizing them, then passing them off as their own. Now they’ve come for the scones.
These scones couldn’t have been further removed for the original idea of a scone; their shape isn’t round and the jam is baked inside the dough. — instead of being a welcome addition slathered on top, it’s sandwiched between layers of dough.
This corruption of the great British scone piqued my interest, so of course I had to test it out for myself. The recipe itself, by Ailsa Burt, is incredibly simple to follow. You may have to make your own blueberry jam, but it’s completely achievable for baking novices.
Its greatest difference is the addition of double cream and eggs to the recipe. This ultimately makes the American scone sweeter and more cake-like in comparison to the British OG. To make them even sweeter, they’re covered in an egg wash and demerara sugar.
The dough is also made to be flattened, covered with the jam, then folded on itself to create that sandwich effect. To me a scone should have height; it should be punched out with a crinkle pastry cutter and left to bloom in the oven.
Even with the addition of one whole tablespoon of baking powder, the height comparison was embarrassing. And, as I don’t doubt my skills as a baker, the American-style scones looked stellar; they were baked beautifully with a golden, crispy crust bursting with a waterfall of purple.
However, they were not scones. They looked like slices of a cherry pie, a more classic American dish they eat for Thanksgiving dinner.
Each triangle is probably worth two British scones, and the main flavour profile is completely different, having swapped summer fruits and forgone the cream.
The scones reminded me of autumn (sorry, fall), a little parcel of fruity joy encased in a crisp shortbread pocket. And that’s really what the scone was: more pastry-esque than a combination of cake and bread.
They’re actually really tasty and enjoyable to eat, but they’re not scones. They’ve chosen the wrong moniker for this baked good. Sorry Yanks, they’ll never be scones, no matter how much they try to be.
Nothing will ever replace the occasion and pageantry of an afternoon cream tea with pots of clotted cream and jam. It’s a British institution. So do they do it better? Pfft, not a chance.
Blueberry & lemon American-style scones
Makes eight to ten
Ingredients
- 125g salted butter, cold and cubed
- 450g plain flour, plus extra for dusting
- 1 tbsp baking powder
- 75g caster sugar
- 2 lemons, zested
- 2 eggs
- 80ml double cream
- 50ml milk
- 2 tsp vanilla paste
- 4 tbsp demerara sugar
For the jam
- 175g blueberries
- 110g golden caster sugar
- 1 lemon, juiced
Method
Tip the blueberries, golden caster sugar and half the lemon juice into a deep saucepan and bring to a simmer. Cook for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally and mashing the blueberries with a spoon, until syrupy.
Pour in the remaining lemon juice and set aside to cool completely. The jam will keep chilled in a sterilised jar for a week.
Tip the butter and flour in a bowl and rub together using your hands until the mixture resembles breadcrumbs with a few larger pieces. You want to see a few streaks of butter in the dough.
Stir in the baking powder, caster sugar and lemon zest, then make a well in the centre. In a jug, mix one of the eggs with the cream, milk and vanilla.
Pour the egg mixture into the well and stir using a cutlery knife, then bring the dough together with your hands until just combined.
Line a baking tray with baking paper. Heat the oven to 220/200 (fan)/gas 7.
Lightly flour your work surface and tip the dough out. Pat the dough into a rough square, about 35 x 35cm and 0.5cm thick, then spread the jam over evenly.
Fold in half by lifting one side and laying it over the other, so it looks like like a sandwich. Cut into eight to ten triangles. Transfer to the baking tray and chill for 30 minutes.
Once the scones have chilled, beat the other egg in a bowl. Generously brush the top of the scones with the beaten egg, then scatter over the demerara sugar.
Bake for 12 to 15 minutes until risen and golden. Remove and leave to cool on the tray until just warm.
The scones will keep in an airtight container for three days.
